Monday, August 31, 2009


Let us do more of the high wind stuff.

If you are sailing the Laser very much, you need to know that dead down wind in a blow is very unstable. You can recognize it by the sudden lurch to the right and then to the left. (I assume this is the wind first going around the sail, luff to leach and then leach to luff.)

Quick, go to by the lee or broad reach so the wind will flow one way across the sail and you will know where to be to balance the boat.

When sailing transitions, don't stop in the middle. Slow and unstable there. Go "lee" or "broad".

Sunday, August 30, 2009


If you are going upwind then get the vang off, close reaching with the top of the sail luffing. Sit out and enjoy the ride. What an old friend of mine called "a fisherman's reef". If you have knots in the vang line to keep the boom somewhat restricted, you might want to take some out. If you unhook the vang toggle in the boom you will be surprised how high the boom will rise on a reach.

Going down wind or on a broad reach consider getting the boom and sail out in front of the boat at a full luff, particularly if you are coming into a beach or dock without much room to head up and stop.

An alternative is to turn the boat down with the top mast in the water. Sit on the high side and balance the boat until the little storm blows by or the lightening stops.

If you are in a sheltered area or can get into one, you can unhook the clew, tighten the Cunningham and wrap the sail several times around the mast. If you take the top batten out you can wrap up quite a bit of the sail. You will need that extra 2 feet of emergency line to expend the outhaul.

Did I mention the "emergency line"? About 2 feet of 1/4 inch or 3/16 inch line wrapped and tided around the aft end of the hiking strap. It rides along to make emergency repairs like the hiking stick to the tiller.

Tomorrow, do you want more about high wind stuff, fleet building or sailing fast?

Saturday, August 29, 2009


C. Stanley Ogilvy in his "Thoughts on Small Boat Racing" (published in 1957 and cost $5) wrote in the last chapter which he titled "After Thoughts" that he had learned more writting and trying to explain his methods and suggests to his readers, why don't you do the same.

Write your own book!

Be your own expert?

You don't have to publish it, but start a log of your races right away! A log of your practice sails!

You will find you learn more from your mistakes than from winning a race.

Review what you have written!

What have you learned today?

Friday, August 28, 2009


Before we get back to winning races, regattas, the hearts and minds of all your friends, take a little time to sit down next to your boat and fix some stuff.

I had my sheet come apart after four years of use. Think about end for end it, maybe every year to make that expensive thing last longer. It wears at the ratchet block when two blocked. That will cut off ten feet of line and make it too short for light wind by the lee sailing.

We had some Atlas Gloves come apart in the middle of high wind race. They are cheap and good so buy two pair at a time and when they start to wear move to the next ones.

Take some time to look over the other lines at points of wear. Maybe the traveler at the fair leads and move the line or get a new line if it looks like it is starting to wear.

Ends of lines getting messed up? Whip or burn them.

Now get out and sail the boat. That is where you will get better--not reading blogs.

Thursday, August 27, 2009


If you are getting started, don't mind all that fancy stuff with the roll tacks and the racing. Just get out and have a good time.

See if you can make the boat move in the light wind. When the wind is up blast around reach to reach and enjoy it. If you move to the back of the boat it will be more stable on a plane.

Do think about turning forward when changing sides and try to do "the hand exchange" thing. Check the Primary Advice thing about catching the transom-- that will all help making it more fun.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009


Yesterday was the first three races for the Gold Fleet in the World Championships.

Paul Goodison had a 3-1-1. In the 8 races so far his worse race is a 5.

Someplace I have his book on "how to sail the laser". I am going to go a look for it now.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009


The Laser is a pretty simple boat, but do you always have what you need??

A check list at home of all the stuff you need when you get to the boat and then some way to remember to get it all on the boat before you leave from shore.

Do what you need....

Monday, August 24, 2009


Do you need a routine before the start?

Robert Scheidt always sailed down the line on starboard and hardened up to close hauled at the pin and then did it again and again before a start.

Line sight, timed and wind and current check??

Sunday, August 23, 2009



To stop the boat, head up to "near head to wind", back the sail by pushing the boom out with the sheet hand and probably push hard.

Then ease up before the backed sail pushes you over to the other tack. Vang off (some disagreement about that - suit yourself), close hauled course and sail at full luff.

You may want to head off a little to close reach course still at full luff. Then the hole to leeward looks smaller.

If you start to backup, trim sail a little to hold position.

With five or six seconds left before the start, if you have space to leeward.
1) pull on some vang,
2) pump the tiller to get the bow down,
3) lean in to heel the boat,
4) trim in the sail
5) and pump the boat flat to get things started
6) with close reach
7) and then close hauled at speed.
8) Now sail fast till the start thing shakes out.

Do you think that thing takes practice. Maybe why the good guys seem to be the ones that sail the most.

While still before the start, you may be able to work to windward by backing the sail to port and sculling to leeward to keep the boat from tacking. (Not easy to do.)

Another way to work to windward before the start is a big back of the sail to tack to port and then hard with the tiller to tack back onto starboard.

If you are too close to the line, maybe to back the sail gently and go backwards, but everyone has the right of way over a boat backing up and it will be hard to get going forward again.

Come out and practice this stuff with us.

Saturday, August 22, 2009


Your start depends a lot on what the other boats are doing.

A large aggressive fleet will all be luffing just below the starting line and driving for the line in the last few seconds. You may have trouble finding a slot in that line up.

Smaller and developing fleets will have a variety of approaches. Get in there and see what happens.

Anything over about a ten degree bias to the line will give a positive advantage to the up wind end of the line.

If the general plan is to go left, then the pin end is the natural one. If you get a good start at the pin you will have clear air and the rest of the fleet will be eating some sort of bad air.
The down side is it will be hard getting you timing perfect and if you get it wrong you may be pretty well buried by the folks sailing over you, taking your wind an letting the next guy do the same thing. The other downside is it may really be hard to tack to port with a lot of boats in the way. If you want to work the middle you will have to wait for some of the others to tack or for a big header.

The boat end is general the best if you are planning to go right. At the boat end you will be able to tack to port right away or to continue to the left. If you want to work the middle, you can start right away. Even a second row start at the boat will let you go right at once or at least the tack out for a clear lane, which is hard to do at the pin end.

The fleet often gets jammed up at the favored end or at both ends leaving the midline more open. Because it is hard to judge just where the midline line is there is usually a "midline sag" and if you have good line sights and particularly the two boat length sight ( see the note a few days ago) the midline will be a safer start with clear air.

If one end of the line is strongly favored then maybe a start a little away from that end but near it will be a more conservative start.

One essential to a good start is the ability to back the sail and stop the boat, control it in the stop mode, and then get the bow down and up to speed better than the fellow next to you.

With more experience when you see the start turning bad, bail out early, look for a better spot or take some sterns.

Friday, August 21, 2009


Starting approaches

1) Vanderbilt start. Used by Harold Vanderbilt to start Range in the America Cup races a hundred years ago. Not used now except as a historical note. If it took 30 seconds to get the boat turned around then port tack broad reach for 2 minutes 15 seconds away from where you wanted to start on the line, tack and sail back close-hauled on starboard to at the line at full speed at the start.

2) Half speed start. Identify a spot 30 seconds away from the line on a close hauled course and try and be there at one minute. Then sail at half speed toward where you want to start on the line. If you are behind or wind lightens than sail faster. If it looks like you will be early, sail a little slower.

3) Dinghy start. So called when people began racing little light boats that could accelerate fast. Just sit luffing behind the line. Sheet in and go just a few seconds before the start. Try not to let boats on either side of you get out ahead. Try to have a small hole to leeward that you can bear off into before the start to aid in acceleration.

4) Port tack approach and tack into a hole between starboard tackers luffing near the line. Avoids getting catch in the mess of boats setting up on starboard.

5) Port tack and cross the fleet start. Occasionaly with a big left wind shift someone will be at the pin end by themselves and cross the fleet on port tack.

6) Port tack luffing. Interesting approach. Half way down the line on port with 30 seconds to go and wait to see how things are shaping up. If big left shift not to far away from the pin to get back or can elect to tack into a hole nearer the RC boat.

What is your favorite or unusual start?

Where on the line and stuff like that tommorrow.

Thursday, August 20, 2009


Some notes on starting .

People that are serious about the races are out early sailing the course to get a feeling for the shifts of the day, the waves and general conditions and getting their boats set up.
Some of the hot shots come late and do well because of their prior experience.

If you are out early and now relaxing and waiting, the "safety position" now taught in sailing schools, it is a little more secure if the long sheet on the Laser is secured at the boom out 90 degrees position. Use the cleat or if without cleats a knot in the sheet or your foot on the sheet so the sail doesn’t wander out a lot more than that.

One of our coaches put out four buoys to mark a box to leeward of the starting line to keep all his students near the line. A good idea to stay close to the line before the start. Do not get way up wind or way own wind, but be able to reach back into the starting area. If you are waiting between races, drinking water ands things like that, have the boat heading back toward the committee boat so it will be easy for you to see the signals.

When you are maneuvering before the start stay near the line. If you get very far down wind and you have a big shift to the other side it maybe impossible to back to that end in time.

This puts you in possible contact with the other boats so stay alert. Most of the collisions happen during this prestart period. During the race you have a better idea about what the other fellow will be doing, but not in the prestart.

Usually you have the four things to do. 1) Check which end of the line is favored (up wind). 2) Time the line. 3) Get a range on the line. And maybe another range on a line 2 boat lengths behind the committee boat to the pin. That second range will give you the position one boat length behind the line half way to the pin. Maybe a good place to be at the start. 4) Check for current.

Remember that the "rules" start with the start of the race which is the Preparatory signal, the P flag, the blue flag with the white square center. That is before the "start" of the race. Collision before that signal don’t count in the race. Touch the mark before that signal and no penalty. Do it after that signal and you have a penalty. If you do have a penalty, you can start doing your turns before the other starting signal.

Wednesday, August 19, 2009


Sail the Course.

Try to get in a clear lane and forget the other boats.

1) Windshifts up the middle.
2) To shore to pick up a header.
3) To right or left to pick up more pressure (wind).
4) To right or left to be in or out of waves.
5) To right or left to be in or out of the current.
6) If in the current, then up wind in the big waves(with the current) and down wind in the
smooth water. If no current then do the opposite.

7) Otherwise stay out of the corners and delay going to the lay line.

Do you have anything to add?

Monday, August 17, 2009


Second beat in a two-lap race.

The race has thinned out a lot now. Singles and groups. Now judgement comes into play.
What kind of a race is this? Club race, training regattas, national championship? And is the first or last in the series. Who are your competitors and who do you have to beat?

Have you been keeping score?

1) If you are leading, "sail the course" and a loose cover on the next guy unless you must beat him and no others, then tight cover.
2) If you are last then go to "dig out of the second row start" that was posted several days ago.
3) If you are somewhere in the middle, then "sail the course" and the "dig out of the second row start." Sail fast, hit the major shifts, a clear lane. Try to pick off the people ahead one or two at a time. You still have another down wind leg and short beat to the finish.

"Sail the course", what is that? Look for that tomorrow.

Sunday, August 16, 2009


This baby is probably the hardest to get right. Like all the stuff, just getting it right on one day will not be right for different wind and sea conditions.

Basically the problem is that you come into the mark with sail all the way out, trim, gybe, move to the other side, change hands, head up next to the mark, and get all the sheet pulled on a close hauled course and maybe ready to tack.

That is a lot of action and you need to practice the long (and fast) arm pulls with sheet hand and the tiller extension hand. You need to come close-hauled next to the mark even if the sail is luffing- it will be easier to trim in then, but you will be sailing a little slower. (Better to be a little slower an sailing fast in the wrong direction).

So now, before you get near to the zone set your outhaul and Cunningham for up wind. That won’t slow you much now and you need to do it before you begin to argue with people about inside at the zone..

You are heading for the point abeam the mark and 2 boat lengths away from the mark. Getting out this far from the mark before the turn is probably the most important to good rounding as it will give you time to do all the stuff.

Board down. I think the folks from Caberete are saying to put some vang on to help speed you around the turn– I say, be careful, the boom will be lower going over you head and if you stick the clew in the water you maybe hanging around the leeward mark for a while.

Check the wind and get a good idea of just the angle of your close hauled course coming out of this thing.
Start an "over sheeting" to get a start on getting some twenty feet of sheet in, then roll and steer around your gybe, get to the other side and switch hands quick so you can really pump the rest of the sheet in while you are hiking out as necessary.

Be close to that mark, but don’t hit it.

Who has practiced that too much?

Saturday, August 15, 2009


My Self Coach Note was long and complex because there are a lot of things that you could be practicing if you want to get your boat handling to a higher level.

This is a note suggesting as short version to work from.

It helps to have a mark to take out in the Laser with you. I was going to tell you what to use for a mark, but this is to be a short note. Don’t use a big government mark that could bust up a Laser if you hit it.

The mark will be your starting mark to practice starts, your windward mark to practice windward rounding and your leeward mark for that mark rounding. If you sail at a place that does triangles or Z courses then it can be the gybe mark.

I throw out the mark. Ignore it and start with the tacks. As many as I can stand. Then I do gybes back down to about where I started. Then do it again till sick of the whole thing.
Now try to find that mark that you dropped off before all this started.

The "stop, stay and go" of the start may require the most practice. I have the most trouble with the leeward mark rounding and practice it most. Probably why in the races my starts are so bad and leeward roundings are better.

Then when you get tired of those start on 360, 720 or what ever you want to add from the long list or stuff that you want to practice.

What is you favorite practice routine?

Friday, August 14, 2009


SHOOT THE FINISH or shoot the moon or shoot the chute.
Wouldn’t we all like to just occasionaly finish just a few inches ahead of the person you were neck and neck with at the finish?

OK – practice the "shoot the finish" almost (more on that later) all of your finishes.

"Shoot the finish" means that at about a half boat length from the mark you go head to wind and "shoot" across the finish line. In a close finish this may be enough to get you ahead, particularly if you are the leeward boat and can’t be seen on the RC boat.

1) You have to finish at one end of the line or the other. At the middle it is too hard to tell just where the line is and you may shoot too early or too late.
2) You should be looking for the downwind end of the finish line anyway.

To set this up, sail to the first finish lay line that you come to. If it is not obvious to you now which end is down wind, then tack to go to the spot where the two lay line meet. This is the best place to judge. Which end is closest now? Go for that one.

Big right shift makes the pin end favored for finish. Big left shift makes the boat end favored.

Everything else being equal, if the line was cocked at the start, then the favored end at the start is not it. Go to the other end.

So now, if you are going to the pin end of the line, you are on starboard. Always nice to have that in your pocket.

If you are heading toward the committee boat then you are on port and I hope you don’t meet any starboard tackers, because that is another page of instructions including which race and who they are etc. Then shoot when you get to the boat.. You will be able to hear them call your finish and that gives you a good check on wether you were a little early or late with your shoot.

Overlapped inside boats have "room at the Zone" so at the pin end if you are on port with overlapped windward boat, you may not be able to shoot if it will deprive them of room to round the mark.

If you are at the boat end on starboard tack , the same applies.

If you shoot the line and loose steerage, remember that you don’t have to cross the line. Just get clear of it without interfering with other boats finishing.

You don’t want to hit the mark while you are in the process of clearing the line, because then you have to do 360 and refinish from the course side of the line.

When not to shoot the line! Yes, when you have a big wind shift and you close hauled course is perpendicular to the line, then just sail straight ahead. That is the fastest and shortest distance.

Lots of time it is pretty obvious which end is favored. Just go to it and "shoot to the finish" as a flourish to end that marvelous episode called "the sailboat race".

If you have a better idea, let me know.

Thursday, August 6, 2009

Learn something every time you sail.
Sail often versus long.– your choice – as often as possible and as long as possible.
More wind and waves– when ever you can find them.
Light to no wind— yes, that also.
Take one two small marks out with you.
On shore spend some time checking rigging and the wear on lines etc.
Mark or knot line settings.
Tacking – 1) roll tack in light air.
2) modified roll tack for medium air.
3) duck low tacks for strong air with super vang on.
Gybe 1) roll gybe for light air
2) gybe from by the lee to by the lee ( pull on aft sheets)
3) high wind gybe
4) in between gybe or beginners gybe - pull from boom block or rachet block when boom coming over.
Tacking 5 to 25 tacks in a row.
Come out of the turn at near 90 degrees– a little more won’t hurt. Avoid stopping with head to wind. If necessary look for a spot on shore to turn to. After each tack get the boat sailing "low and fast" (bow down). Windward and leeward tell tales flowing. If you can’t see the leeward telltale, then head up till the windward one is just lifting and then head off just a liittle. Not generally recommenced, but I find telltale just in front of window helps some as you can always see both.
Interesting to see how the tacks feel after about 15 in a row.
Go downwind with multiple gybes. Lets stick with one type until you are sick of it.
Then go upwind with multiple tacks and come down wind with a different type of gybe.
Then go up wind with a one minute "sail fast" between the tacks. Flat, tell tales flowing, outhaul, Cunningham, vang all set properly. Sheet right– two block if needed.
Do the upwind one minute "sail fast" and concentrate on looking around (head out of boat). Look
for pressure look for the mark, look at what the other boats are doing, look under the boom for other boats.
Now see if you can find the marks that you set out.
Windward mark rounding with vang off, maybe outhaul and Cunningham, hike, sheet out and weight aft with rapid turn to downwind by the lee.
Go hard by the lee as if someone was right behind you.
Then transition back and forth from by the lee to broad reach with good rolls to initiate the turns.
Gybe and rounding of the leeward mark.
Back upwind just focusing on wind shifts. Tack on every header that you feel. Stay out of the corners and delay going to the lay line.
Now after all the gybes, go downwind focuses on the wind shifts. Broad reach or by the lee to stay closest to the leeward mark. Avoid the dead downwind. Look around 360 degrees. Look for wind lines. Look for competitors that may be behind.
ROUNDING LEEWARD MARK. Tactical rounding= enter wide (one or two boat lengths) and exit close hauled next to the mark. Helps to visualize the close hauled angle as you sail into the mark.
Sail to the left side of the zone and then make a sharp turn toward the mark at the zone to shake off any marginal inside boat overlap. This leaves a gybe and tactical rounding.
Then practice putting the gybe in some time ahead. If you are by the lee just gybe over and go for the tactical rounding. It will be easier with the gybe first. (You can’t do that with a by the lee boat close. They on starboard tack and you going to port.)
When you have that down, then do gybe-tactical rounding and tack at once onto starboard.
Now come in to the leeward mark on port and do "seaman like rounding" (sharp turn close to mark) as if you are the inside boat without right of way.
AT THE WINDWARD MARK, practice luffing around the mark when a half boat length below the lay line. The wind and waves will have something to do with if it will work or not. In any case be sure you have the bow down and good speed before the luff– don’t try to pinch around the mark. (Old folks called that "head reach".)
Practice the double tack around the mark in case you need one or two boat lengths to make it.
Practice tacking into windward mark on port at four boat lengths out (not in the zone) so you will remember to do that unless you are well ahead or well behind.
Practice deep bear off before tack to pass behind a starboard tacker that has you "pinned" so you can’t tack.
Practice 360 and 720 circles both upwind and downwind. Try to come out of the last tack or gybe on course to next mark and get sailing fast.(Try with the board up some, drop the tiller and be counting the tack and gybe) Good boat handling skill and you should need it occasionaly i.e. try to squeak out port tack crossing the doesn’t work– don’t cheat, just do your turns.
STARTING; Set out your two marks as start line. Do the four steps–1) Up wind end? 2) Time the line 3) Get a range. 4) check for current.
Stop at the starboard end and wait 30 seconds. Then vang, leeward heel, rudder pump, trim flatten at bow down, trim in and sail fast for one minute.
Repeat with start at the pin.
Repeat with start at the midline.
Repeat with port tack approach at 30 seconds.
Repeat with port tack approach at pin and mid line.
Repeat with "over early" and around the ends restart.
Up wind sit forward with good leeward heel. (Reduces wetted surface and gets gravity working on sail shape)
Keep boat moving with boom out past the transom and some vang on as necessary.
Change gears in and out of the puffs.
Work out the tacks....
SAIL WHEN THE WIND IS UP.. All the vang that is necessary. Duck low tack with the vang on. Sheet out as necessary to keep near flat. Vang off going down wind. By the lee with boom not out more than 80 degrees.
Test the turn toward the boom to fight the death roll. When planning move back in boat to get the bow up.
IN WAVES up to 18 inches, bow down and muscle through them. Probably with waves at 2 feet, be working the up the up side and down the downside with weight shift. Body aft with the up side and body forward with the down side.
STAND UP TO LOOK AROUND. Look for the pressure. Look for the waves.
Stand up and sail up wind, squat and duck under the boom while tacking.
In light wind step to in front of the mst and roll the boat to make it go and steer with exaggerated heel.
TURN OVER and sit on the high side of the boat.
TURN OVER and duck under from leeward, pull on CB and right the boat.
TURN OVER and dive over the high side to reach the CB and right the boat.
TURN OVER to windward and right the boat with the San Francisco roll (hold on to the CB as the boat rights and then come up on the windward side and get in.
TURN OVER and drop the tiller extension and hold onto the sheet.
In higher winds let the luffing sail out in front of the boat. Follow it on broad reach or run. Know how far out your sheet will go out. If necessary, untie the knot, let the sheet through the ratchet block and retie. Then drop the sheet if necessary to get straight down wind. Then head up and retrieve the sheet.
Watch the clouds. Shape (especially the tall towering ones) and movement. Are the wind gusts coming down from the edge of the clouds? More important on long courses.
Survival upwind= vang off and top of sail luffing. Survival down wind= follow luffing sail.
Short term survival- turn boat down and wait out storm. Work the sheet to stay upright –out if turning over toward the boom and in if turning over to windward with rudder turn toward the boom.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Did you notice Sunday that the "youth" have taken over the Laser fleet. Ben, Seth, Conner, Tim– and around the corner Luke ( when he tames the wild streak), Max, Darcy, Nicole, Bart , Jonathon– that’s OK because we have the MASTER TROPHIES, the BALD HEADED GUYS TROPHIES, the TROPHIES FOR GRANDMOTHERS, etc.
The rest of this is just for the Laser sailors–so the rest of you skip it.

I noticed Sunday and for some time that Ben’s tacks are the best and that allows him to use more wind shifts (the big separator on screwy little lakes.) The boat whisperer guy describes the modern roll tack (don’t come out faster than you went in) as flat slow turn to windward using up you momentum more directly to windward and then as you are slowing, sharpen the turn (when head to wind) with a pretty big row to windward (becoming leeward) putting half the side deck under water, trimming in the sheet tight during the turn and then easing out 2 or three feet– then stand up (old guys) or jump up, hiking out to pump the boat forward and trim the sheet in for some extra push.
You need to turn over occasionaly practicing this and then be so good that you don’t.

OK, that’s Ben - now I won’t name the others. There is more stress going around the windward mark when the wind is up a little.
1) You have to let the sheet out big time or you will take off like a rocket on a beam reach– fast in the wrong direction, a big no no in boat racing.
2) The vang needs to be off so the clew doesn’t dig into a wave and turn you over.

So as you come into the windward mark:
1) Pull out a little or a lot of sheet on the windward deck so it will run.
2) Vang off.
3) If you have time, dump the outhaul and Cunningham. You can do that later, but they will run out quicker right now.
4) Pull up a little centerboard if you are making an easy rounding and are running out of things to do on you list.
5) Be sure the boom and sheet have cleared the mark before much of the rest of this.
6) Hike hard and roll the boat up to windward if you can so the boat wants to turn you down.
7) Dump the sheet so that the boat really rolls to windward and heads down.
8) As you pull on the tiller, hike and lease the sheet, also roll toward the stern to raise the bow.
9) Now you have done everything to turn the boat downwind. Good Job. Maybe an extra 100 dollars for the new ball bearing Harken Laser sheet blocks will get the sheet running fast and in light wind you won’t have to step forward and push the boom out – but not if the sheet is wrapped around your foot or full of kinks and knots.

But more common problem is the leeward mark rounding especially when it is a gybe and mark rounding
The tactical rounding is to sail to abeam of the mark one to two boat lengths away. Try to make a smooth turn to keep up boat speed and pass close by the mark close hauled so that anyone following you will not be able to sail any higher than you are.
Usually it means that you have to start trimming in the sheet before the mark is abeam , gybe and get to the other side of the boat, change hands and trim with both hands and arms in long pulls with enthusiasm while you are turning to close hauled course.
Turn to close hauled course even if you are a little slow in trimming. If the sail is luffing, the trimming just gets easier. If you loose speed it is not as important as being close hauled next to the mark. An overtaking boat has to keep clear, will eat your bad air and not be able do anything but fall behind or tack out.
It will help coming into the mark to visualize the angle of the close hauled boat so you can steer for it.

If you come into the ZONE with the right of way (starboard tack inside boat) then you can do the wide tactical turn. If you come in on port and windward boat, then you have to do a "seaman like rounding", close to the mark and sharp turn even if it stops the boat. Be close hauled ASAP.

Now you are around the mark in good shape, still are ahead of the folks on the run or outside on the turn, check out "short beat to the finish" on

How do I know this stuff and can’t win a race? Hey, check out that last score sheet, I did get a second.